Guests at the Casa del Balam are in for a treat at the hotel's restaurant. Eat here once and you'll be tempted to take all your meals in this comfortably informal dining room. The setting is charming, overlooking the gardens and pool area, but it's the food that will compel you to return.

This is the place to try some of the specialties for which the Yucatán is famous. The restaurant's version of Poc Chuc, a spicy pork dish, was the most delicious we've encountered - very tasty but not too hot. Any fiery salsas are served separately.

Also don't be put off by the name of the popular 'Sopa de Lima' or Lime Soup, it is actually an aromatic blend of chicken broth, tortilla strips, chopped tomato and peppers.

More international selections, such as chicken in orange sauce or beef cutlets are also available.

We find it difficult to resist the delicious warm bread served while we order (and recommend the mango mousse as a suitably light dessert for those who overindulge). Needless to say, there is a wide choice of beverages to accompany your meal, including a good selection of wines. A weekly Yucatecan party adds to the flavor.

You may be rising early to reach the ruins before the crowds, but don't miss breakfast, served from 7:00am in the same restaurant or in the delightful courtyard.

A full American breakfast costs around 40 pesos (US$4), though you may prefer to go 'a la carte' for scrambled eggs a la mexicana or other more exotic selections.

Whatever you order, you'll probably be treated to a basket of fresh bread and warm toast, served with homemade jams such as papaya (heavenly) and pineapple. Worth setting the alarm for...