standard palafitos

For a real back-to-nature escape (but with more than your fair share of pampering) try one of the Hotelito's Standard Palafitos. Here you can wake as the dawn breaks and listen as the estuary comes alive with birdsong. Better still, open the doors to the terrace and watch the sun rise from the eminently comfortable beds.

El Barril, El Cotorro and El Tambor overlook the water meadows and estuary and have wonderful tranquil views. These three rooms and the duplex suite La Escalera have a relatively secluded position but are just a short stroll from the main restaurant.

La Sandia and El Gallo are closer to the restaurant and adjoin the palafito suites La Chalupa and El Pino. They also enjoy great views over the estuary.

We reckon that these standard rooms capture the essence of the Hotelito. The wide open expanses of this nature reserve begin right outside your doors and you can imagine yourself hundreds of miles (and years) away from civilization. As darkness falls, walk to dinner at the waterside restaurant. The pathways are lit by torches (very pretty), though you should bring the flashlight that's provided too. And dinner is served by candlelight - of course.

While you're out, your room will be prepared for night-time as dozens of candles are lit and the beds are swathed in netting. With such a romantic setting, the only argument is going to be whose turn it is to blow out the last candle...

The rooms are spacious and you'll find some of the furnishings more befitting to a thatched hut than others (oil paintings, fine linens and delicate embroidery versus hand made wooden furniture and candles).

A special device facilitates lazy mornings - pull the cord to raise the red flag above your palapa roof and presently coffee (and a little surprise) will arrive at the door. Breakfast is served at the restaurant until 11am, so there's no need to rush to shower and dress unless perhaps you've planned an early morning sortie on horseback.

Each room has the requisite semi-outdoor shower (don't worry - a bamboo screen protects your privacy) and showering by candlelight is essential after sunset. And yes, the water is hot - steamy and scalding in the evening after a sunny day, though only warmish first thing in the morning (another excuse for a lie-in).

It's difficult to imagine a more perfect contrast to city life than a few days of indulgent relaxation at Hotelito.