One tip for your visit to the Villa Montana: plan to start your evening before dusk, with a cocktail on the terrace of the restaurant, overlooking the city. As the sun sets, the rose-hued mansions and churches of Morelia's colonial inheritance glow in the warmth of the sun. Later, as darkness falls, the city comes alight with hundreds of twinkling lights.

Proceed to the dining room, where a combination of rustic charm and elegant formality creates a special setting for this highly regarded restaurant. The cuisine is a mix of traditional Mexican and International, beautifully presented and attentively served. A wide selection of national and imported wines are available (including half bottles) to accompany such dishes as 'Confit of Duck with Warm Red Wine Vinaigrette' and 'Enchiladas del Portal with Grilled Chicken Breast'.

Don't miss the spectacular buffet breakfast served at weekends and featuring a host of Mexican specialties both hot and cold, plus fresh fruits, home baked breads and yogurts. During the week, choose from the a la carte menu offering fruit, cereals and some delicious egg dishes, or chilaquiles, molletes and the local corundas.

Consider the attractions of a roaring log fire on winter evenings or dining outside on the patio in the summer and you'll understand why guests are rarely tempted to leave their hillside retreat. Strolling 'home' through the scented gardens to a freshly turned down cottage suite is a suitably perfect end to the evening.